We are two brothers from Varaždin, Croatia, we have been climbing for 10 years and this is our new blog – which aims to cover our preparation for the BWSC 2014 competition to be held on 3rd of May, 2014 in Paklenica, and later our small climbing journeys.
To get more information about two of us, visit About page!
We are grateful to have a sponsor for this year’s competition – Croatian Petzl distributor Bim Sport will support our new chase for the record with equipment and clothing. Thank you Bim Sport and Petzl!
Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2014
Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica is a unique competition, where the goal is simple – climb a 160m route BWSC (6c+) as fast as possible, under specific set of rules (for instance, simul climbing is forbidden and you have to clip all the quickdraws). The competition is being held each year on the 1st of May since 2000, and we are competing since 2007.
After a series of second places, in the year 2012 we decided to take this competition a bit more seriously, and win it. With two months of very specific training and preparation under the belt we succeeded in setting the new speed record with the time of 20 minutes and 49 seconds (beating the previous record by more than half a minute). The record still stands, but is bound to be beaten this year.
Why is 2014 so interesting?
Except for the fact that BWSC in Paklenica is the biggest climbing festival organised in Croatia and brings together hundreds of climbers each year, this time it is specially interesting because the previous record holder and one of the best climbers in Croatia, Igor Čorko, is coming back to try to claim the record again. He is partnering with Emil Mucko, who is a super naturally gifted individual, also holding multiple BWSC wins.
Interestingly, two of them and two of us are all from the same climbing gym PK Vertikal in Varaždin. So, it is a combination of friendships and rivalry – our goal from the beginning was to break our own record again, and added rivalry makes it all a little bit more intense.
Training for the competition is already long underway – it includes (a lot of) pull-ups, interval running, gym exercises, special endurance climbing and of course – practice in the route itself, because it is the same route each year.
For more details on our preparation, wait for our next post!
First photo: L. Mudronja
Second photo: D. Pačić
Third photo: D. Koljnrekaj