8a+

Dear readers, it’s been a while since our last post – it seems this sentence is becoming a tradition for opening new posts :). Well, the lack of posts does not mean that we do not have anything to write about, contrary, the ideas abound, but we are to busy (or sometimes to lazy, to be honest) to translate thoughts to words. I just realized that I have a nice occasion to resurrect this blog which does not require a lot of effort to write. Also, currently I’m a Croatian pro climber (unemployed, living at parent’s house), so I cannot hide anymore behind I’m-busy-excuse. So, the occasion is: I climbed my 100th route grade 8a or harder!

Some times ago, I posted about reaching a milestone of having climbed 50 routes graded 8a or harder. It took me 10 years to go from 0 to 50, and now a bit less than 3 years to go from 50 to 100. So, by extrapolating this trend (double the number in 1/3 time), I should reach 200 in a year 😀 Yeah, right. With a recent habit of Croatian corporations to go bankrupt, I think they employ similar math when they plan their income 🙂

In the 50 8as post, I dreamed about climbing Chuck Norris (8b+) on Pokojec. I am glad that, in the meantime, this route made it to my tick list, as well as my first 8c, 8a onsight, and 8a multipitch. This time, I will also put a picture of the route that I dream will make it to the tick list, it almost did, but well… it didn’t.

I will let you guess the name of the route 😉

For those hard-core geeks, like myself, below, you can find a list of my 100 8as.

¡Hasta luego amigos!
Jurica

P. S. Spanish is not here by accident, but more on that later 😉

The list:

2007

1. Rosna Ljubičica (8a), Pokojec, 5.7.2007.
2. Guernica (8a), Kotečnik, 7.7.2007.

2008

3. Urbanova (8a), Mišja peč, 16.3.2008.
4. Mala sirena (8a/a+), Pokojec, 10.5.2008.
5. Kill Bill (8b), Pokojec, 11.9.2008.
6. Samsara (8a), Mišja peč, 7.12.2008.

2009

7. Giljotina (8a), Mišja peč, 23.1.2009.
8. Čao bejbe (8a), Mišja peč, 22.3.2009.
9. Every hole is a good hole (8a/a+), Kalnik, 6.6.2009.
10. Hooker (8a+), Golobove pečine, 12.7.2009.
11. Genom (8a), Vela stiniva, 24.7.2009.
12. Jurek&Maca (8a), Vranja peć, 5.8.2009.
13. Zagorski tarzan (8a+), Pokojec, 3.9.2009.

2010

14. Mjesečina (8a+), Pokojec, 9.5.2010.
15. Rumpel štilski (8a), Pokojec, 7.7.2010.
16. Bruchheinzi (8a), Peggauer wand, 13.10.2010.
17. Oxa (8a), Pokojec, 30.10.2010.

2011

18. Mrtvaški ples (8b), Mišja peč, 30.1.2011.
19. Huda čudovišta (8a, FA), Vranja peć, 24.2.2011.
20. Albanski konjak (8a), Mišja peč, 26.2. 2011.
21. Gorilko (8a), Vranja peć, 31.5.2011.
22. Anthrax (8a), Zia, 24.9.2011.
23. Enigma (8b, FA), Pokojec, 28.9.2011.
24. Prste lomim živci mi krvare (8a), Pokojec, 11.10.2011.
25. Marmots at work (8b), Pandora, 23.12.2011.

2012

26. Snoop Boggi Direkt (8a), Pandora, 9.4.2012.
27. Winnetou (8a), Paklenica, 15.4.2012.
28. Paštašuta (8a/a+), Vranja peć, 29.4.2012.
29. Psiho (8a), Pokojec, 25.5.2012.
30. Kompresor (8a, FA), Pokojec, 13.6.2012.
31. Specijalist za življenje (8a+), Kotečnik, 24.7.2012.
32. Disleksija (8a+, FA), Pokojec, 21.9.2012.

2013

33. Corto (8a), Mišja peč, 30.5.2013.
34. SPK Direkt (8a), Čuturaševa peć, 9.6.2012.
35. Che Guevara (8a), Bitnje, 6.7.2013.
36. Modern art (8a), Goltschach, 11.7.2013.
37. Ledena doba (8a), Čreta, 18.9.2013.
38. Sonce v očeh (8a+), Mišja peč, 13.10.2013.
39. Reve de papillon (8a), Buoux, 5.11.2013.

2014

40. Es ist vollbracht (8b+), Pandora, 17.1.2014.
41. Los compadres de puta madre (8a/a+), Paklenica, 5.4.2014.
42. Ženska za nagrado (8a), Bohinjska bela, 20.5.2014.
43. Pune bombe v ovinek (8a+), Čreta, 3.6.2014.
44. Pravi muži (8a+, FA), Vranja peć, 28.6.2014.
45. Placcoman (8a), Barratro, 16.7.2014.
46. Gojzr party (8a+), Ter, 9.7.2014.
47. Chiquita (8a), Mišja peč, 22.7.2014.
48. Iglu (8a), Mišja peč, 11.9.2014.
49. Alexander (8a), Goltschach, 28.9.2014.
50. Independence (8a+), Preddvor, 30.9.2014.
51. Antuan Pirulero (8a), Siurana, 29.10.2014.

2015

52. Marjetica (8b), Mišja peč, 21.2.2015.
53. Vizija (8c), Mišja peč, 6.5.2015.
54. Active discharge (8a), Osp, 16.5.2015.
55. Brdavs (8a), Retovje, 28.5.2015.
56. Porosenok (8a), Demir kapija, 10.6.2015.
57. Zabushant (8a), Demir kapija, 11.6.2015.
58. Neox (8a), Buzetski kanjon, 21.6.2015.
59. Šefka (8a), Buzetski kanjon, 25.6.2015.
60. Too late (8a), Buzetski kanjon, 25.6.2015.
61. Ritem v zraku (8a+), Bohinjska bela, 9.7.2015.
62. Rock’N’Rolla (8a, FA), Golubinjak, 19.7.2015.
63. Sex and candy (8a+), Skedenj, 5.8.2015.
64. Nina (8a), Skedenj, 12.8.2015.
65. Love story (8a), Bohinjska bela, 16.8.2015.
66. Dubbio finale (8a+), Baratro, 18.8.2015.
67. Pokraculja (8a), Retovje, 3.9.2015.
68. Leite di burra (8a), Statte, 4.10.2015.
69. L’artiglio di Dorica (8a), Statte, 4.10.2015.
70. Agente naranja (8a), Chullila, 28.11.2015.

2016

71. Blood, sugar, sex, magic (8a), Mišja peč, 27.2.2016.
72. Sreča vrtnice (8b), Mišja peč, 27.2.2016.
73. Treče tisočletje (8a), Mišja peč, 2.3.2016.
74. Strta srca (8a+), Mišja peč, 20.4.2016.
75. Cigo (8a), Paklenica, 29.4.2016.
76. Corrida (8c), Mišja peč, 14.5.2016.
77. Tekila (8a), Mišja peč, 15.5.2016.
78. Agricantius (8a, 200m), Paklenica, 22.5.2016.
79. Chuck norris (8b+), Pokojec, 1.10.2016.
80. Ptičja perspektica (8a+), Mišja peč, 13.10.2016.
81. Happiness therapy (8a, flash), Smrka, 30.10.2016.
82. El patator (8a), Smrka, 1.11.2016.
83. I believe I can fly (8a), Smrka, 2.11.2016.
84. Brač a gauche (8a), Smrka, 4.11.2016.
85. Olive holds (8a), Smrka, 5.11.2016.
86. Sveti Duje (8a), Marjan, 6.11.2016.
87. Pikova dama (8b), Mišja peč, 13.11.2016.

2017

88. Dreamworld (8a+), San Vito lo Capo, 2.1.2017.
89. Roof rabbit (8a), San Vito lo Capo, 4.1.2017.
90. Variante robin (8a+), San Vito lo Capo, 6.1.2017.
91. Adelante (8a), Val rosandra, 22.1.2017.
92. White power (8a), Mišja peč, 8.4.2017.
93. Paradise lost (8a), Preddvor, 28.5.2017.
94. 366 dni (8a), Snovik, 2.7.2017.
95. Wasser vaga (8a), Kanjon Rječine, 7.7.2017.
96. Happy end (8a, onsight), Vranjača, 10.7.2017.
97. Devica light (8a+), Vranjača, 16.7.2017.
98. Aglaia (8a), Paklenica, 20.7.2017.
99. Spirit of Rock (8a+), Vaganac, 21.7.2017.
100. Dogma (8a+), Šeginov potok, 20.8.2017.

Finalists: 1. Borna Čujić, 2. Luka Kivela, 3. Krešimir Morić, 4. Nikola Kramarić. 5. Ivan Pevec, 6. Jurica Levatić. Photo by Ivana Kuštek

Croatian bouldering championship

Merely two months passed since the BWSC competition, but it seems like a year. After the BWSC, there was no time to waste, Croatian bouldering championship in Pula was just two weeks ahead. I did a couple of training sessions on plastic to remind myself how to pull hard, but after 3 months of 6b-jug-climbing, it felt like my body will fall apart. It amazes me how quickly and efficiently the body adapts: you train, fell like super-fit speed climbing machine, and suddenly “normal” climbing starts to be awkward and strange. I left to Pula without big expectations. I was hoping to enter the finals, and did exactly that – just barely squeaked into. At the end, I took 6th place – sturdily :). Happy with the result, but to do better next year, a bit more (or a lot more) training is needed. Young-guns are becoming really strong. I really enjoyed the competition, this is always a nice opportunity to meet friends from all over Croatia.

Climbing around Slovenia

After Pula, it was finally time for some normal climbing again, without competition, pressure and stopwatches. My girlfriend Petra and I, were eager to make use of the benefits of living in Slovenia. There is a ton of crags, and most are within 1h driving from Ljubljana. One day you can climb in beautiful alpine setting, and the other enjoy sunny sea side. We visited some of the regular climbing spots, but also some of the less traveled ones – Slovenian friends are still making fun of our choices :). Particularly interesting was the crag named Pod Sušo. A relict from history, with plastic and drilled holds here and there, red restricting lines and hard-as-hell vertical routes. Anyway, it was good for getting back in shape, and I managed to send a few 8as and onsight a 7c (not at Pod Sušo 🙂 ).

Huge anchor at Pod Sušo. Photo by Marina Jašić

First ascent of the last project at Vranja peč

Two weeks ago, I decided to check out an old project at my home crag, Vranja peč. Vranja is a small piece of rock deep in the Zagorian forest, where mosquitos abound and gentle 0.5 promiles of alcohol are in the air :). The routes are just like the local drink rakija: short and intense. Only one line remained unclimbed there, an old project Igor Čorko bolted about 6 years ago. I was fumbling with this route for years now, but just couldn’t do the moves. This time I envisioned some very unobvious beta – and it worked! It features probably the hardest shoulder move I have ever done on rock.

The move. Photo: L. Tambača

Next day, I returned with my brother, and suddenly, after a huge fight, found myself going for the last hold. The combination of excitement and exhaustion made me flying down. Damn! We were back two weeks later, but with no climbing in between due to work. Expectations and confidence were not high, but somehow, I stuck the shoulder move. I knew that there is no chance to do it again that day, so I was determined not to let go this time. And I didn’t. I named the route Pravi Muži. “Muž” is a typical Zagorian man: strong as bull and with remarkable drinking skills :). Grade? For sure the hardest at Vranja peč, so I will go with 8a+, one step at a time. Luckily, excellent photographer Luka Tambača was there, enjoy photo gallery: